Official Classics Lift and Tire thread

Not seeing the BJ spacer. It's probably cranked torsion bars. They are height adjustable from factory. More you crank them for more height. The stiffer it rides.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Not seeing the BJ spacer. It's probably cranked torsion bars. They are height adjustable from factory. More you crank them for more height. The stiffer it rides.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You're right, there's definitely not a BJ spacer I figure after looking through their products and inspecting my front end. Concluding it's just cranked torsion bars, as you said. Thinking I might wind em back down to smooth up the ride after I replace the front shocks. As I go through all various bushings and whatnot, I may add some spacers to the front, but I don't see much need for me to run anything beyond a 31/32 inch tire for my application
 
You're right, there's definitely not a BJ spacer I figure after looking through their products and inspecting my front end. Concluding it's just cranked torsion bars, as you said. Thinking I might wind em back down to smooth up the ride after I replace the front shocks. As I go through all various bushings and whatnot, I may add some spacers to the front, but I don't see much need for me to run anything beyond a 31/32 inch tire for my application

You should wind them back down. Judging by your picture they are cranked to the max. Here is my How To Thread on adjusting the bars to stock using the factory service manual. It has service manual pics, and the exact numbers you need:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...en-ifs-torsion-bars-factory-specs-via-sm.html
 
Thank you, much appreciated! I did my 100 series torsion bar tweak in high school, so I'm somewhat familiar with the whole ordeal. I'm away from town for a couple weeks so wont be able to get any work in on it, but when I get back gonna wind those down and slap on some new shocks and possibly add spacers to maintain the current hieght. Maybe ill have my 25 post count by then and get me a thread started haha

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
 
I would do BJ spacers and adjust your height by adjusting the torsion bar. Even with Bj spacers and set at factory height. You will get a very smooth ride.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Just wanted to let everyone know that i scrapped the frankenstein lift idea and installed a pro comp stage ll - 4" lift. Heres pics before and after. Im super stoked. Now comes the time to clean it up a bit, she aint pretty on the eyes lol
KngfxYy.jpg
 
I am having a tough time on rear springs for my 4Runner. Mostly want to remove the sag. I would prefer not doing anything to the front IFS.

What is confusing is I don't know what the stock height is. I barely have 2" of rear bump stop clearance. What was it stock?

How much rake do the OME light duty springs give? I've searched but can't find any pictures.

What are the thoughts on Northwest Off-road springs?

I've emailed Deaver to see what it would cost to make a set for a first gen. They have ignored all three messages.
 
I am having a tough time on rear springs for my 4Runner. Mostly want to remove the sag. I would prefer not doing anything to the front IFS.

What is confusing is I don't know what the stock height is. I barely have 2" of rear bump stop clearance. What was it stock?

How much rake do the OME light duty springs give? I've searched but can't find any pictures.

What are the thoughts on Northwest Off-road springs?

I've emailed Deaver to see what it would cost to make a set for a first gen. They have ignored all three messages.

I was curious of the same thing. I ended up going with 1.5" bj spacer and 3rd gen rear coil ZUK mod. I have some pics in my build thread. Also here is a link with the dakar springs and bj spacer.
Ball joint spacers and leaf spring question - YotaTech Forums
 
I am having a tough time on rear springs for my 4Runner. Mostly want to remove the sag. I would prefer not doing anything to the front IFS.

What is confusing is I don't know what the stock height is. I barely have 2" of rear bump stop clearance. What was it stock?

How much rake do the OME light duty springs give? I've searched but can't find any pictures.

What are the thoughts on Northwest Off-road springs?

I've emailed Deaver to see what it would cost to make a set for a first gen. They have ignored all three messages.


Here is how you measure it as per the factory service manual:

Measure at the center of the front mounting bolt for the leaf spring on an extremely level surface, like a leveled garage floor:

20160624_155032.jpg~original



***The height should measure 16.3" on NEW 225/75 R15 tires inflated to 29 PSI. For NEW 31x10.5 tires add 1.35", so 17.65".***


20160624_155041.jpg~original



I have found the front to be stock (using the FSM method of measuring at the lower control arm front mounting bolts, 11.2" on 225/5 tires, 12.55 on 31x10.5 tires) to equal 13.5" measured from top of 15" stock wheel to bottom of fender lip directly above it. That SHOULD mean the rear at stock height should measure 11.5" as the rear fenders are two inches lower on the back of the body. This should be the same no matter what tire size. Make sure the front is right before you attempt to restore the rear.

Front tire pressure for either size factory tire should be 26psi, these trucks are quite light. (Ensure your front tires are not at 35 PSI or something, and people wonder why they IFS seems so rough in stock form, hahahahaha). Rear should be 29 PSI (sometimes door sticker says 35, but the numbers I gave you say 29psi on that FSM page).



.
 
Last edited:
I was curious of the same thing. I ended up going with 1.5" bj spacer and 3rd gen rear coil ZUK mod. I have some pics in my build thread. Also here is a link with the dakar springs and bj spacer.
Ball joint spacers and leaf spring question - YotaTech Forums

Thanks! I'm really trying to avoid bj spacers but may have too.

Here is how you measure it as per the factory service manual:

Measure at the center of the front mounting bolt for the leaf spring on an extremely level surface, like a leveled garage floor:

20160624_155032.jpg~original



***The height should measure 16.3" on NEW 225/75 R15 tires inflated to 29 PSI. For NEW 31x10.5 tires add 1.35", so 17.65".***


20160624_155041.jpg~original



I have found the front to be stock (using the FSM method of measuring at the lower control arm front mounting bolts, 11.2" on 225/5 tires, 12.55 on 31x10.5 tires) to equal 13.5" measured from top of 15" stock wheel to bottom of fender lip directly above it. That SHOULD mean the rear at stock height should measure 11.5" as the rear fenders are two inches lower on the back of the body. This should be the same no matter what tire size. Make sure the front is right before you attempt to restore the rear.

Front tire pressure for either size factory tire should be 26psi, these trucks are quite light. (Ensure your front tires are not at 35 PSI or something, and people wonder why they IFS seems so rough in stock form, hahahahaha). Rear should be 29 PSI (sometimes door sticker says 35, but the numbers I gave you say 29psi on that FSM page).



.

:redface:

Why on earth did I not think about going to the FSM?

:high5:
 
I have 225 75R16 tires so if my tire calculator is right 1" larger diameter tire.

I get 12.2" in the front, so ~0.5" high over stock (11.7" should be the stock front height with these tires). Probably ok as the air pressure is 34psi.

I get 16.1" in the rear, so ~3/4" too low (16.9" should be the stock height with these tires. I'm guessing a full inch too low as the tires are inflated to 34 psi.


Thanks so much for the tip! I just measured my rear bumpstop gap. 1", my 2" estimate was way off.
 
Last edited:
I'm going with a Zuk Mod as a stop gap solution. I did not want to spend money on new coil springs (black magic), but one thing that has bugged me about using either 4Runner or Jeep springs for a coil helper is that I couldn't find anything reliable about the spring rate. Now that I have some rear springs from a 2000 4Runner in hand I can do some estimates.

Spring Rate=GD^4/8NA^3

G=Torsional Modulus or Modulus of Rigidity. I'm using 11.3x10^6 psi for cast steel
D=Wire Diameter in inches
N=Number of active coils
A=Average Coil Diameter

For my springs (I don't have any calipers at home)
D=0.5 inches
N=6 (I am assuming the pigtail coil is active)
A=5 inches- I am not doing a weighted mean average of the coil width using the pigtail coil. I'm just using the large coils.

I get 117.7 lbs/inch

Using an online calculator that uses a bit higher G (Music Wire ASTM A228), I get 119.72 lbs/inch.

For ease of math, if I cut 2 inches off (15" to 13") there will be 5 active coils the spring will now have a spring rate of ~142 lbs/inch. Cutting them a little more will increase the spring rate.

If that pigtail coil isn't active, the stock length spring rate is ~142 lbs/inch and the cut coil spring rate would be 175 lbs/inch. I suspect the pigtail coil is an active coil. In researching coil springs I came across 12" 5"OD pigtail springs with a spring rate of 150 lbs/inch.


I hope I estimated this correctly but gives on an idea of what they are working with. I guess I'll throw on the 15" 4Runner coils on and see what it looks like. If it is too much I'll cut them and live with the stiffer ride until I figure out what I am going to do to replace the leaf springs.
 
Your numbers seem pretty good, I wouldnt mess around with the front. Try out your coils, it its too much lift just cut a length of coil off.
 
Your numbers seem pretty good, I wouldnt mess around with the front. Try out your coils, it its too much lift just cut a length of coil off.

That was the plan. It should be a decent temporary fix. However, I bought some OME rear springs that will arrive tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
OME lift+BJ spacers also needs from axle spacers

FYI This was something I hadn't seen discussed but shortly after my OME lift with BJ spacers my CV boots split, very expensive to fix if you don't do it yourself.

The increased angle causes them to wear a lot faster.

You can get spacers to bring it closer to the stock angle for the front axle from 4Crawler. They're a 30$ part and half hour install.
 
OME and 1.5" BJ spacers

Long time lurker, finally posting pics of my T4R. Sadly I'm looking to sell this as I never have time to even drive it!

IMG_3099_zpsqy3rk2rv.jpg~original
 
So, from all I am gathering and reading, the standard lift you need to fit 33s on a 1st gen, without any problems or rub is just a 3" body lift. Is that correct?
 
4" RC Rear lift, 3" TG IFS Eliminator Front (Just installed, springs still really need to settle), with 315/75/16 (35's). Will post more as the springs settle and when I go larger on tires. Forgot to mention its trimmed 2" rear and 3.5-4" front
 

Attachments

  • Finished1.jpeg
    Finished1.jpeg
    43.6 KB · Views: 1,175
so these are 32 x 11.50 x 15? 2inch lift ?

I can not say enough good things about Cooper tires. I have the Discoverer SST Pros and they are wonderful. I've put about 12k miles on them (Baja, Death Valley 3 times, a long drive with a trailer to Black Rock Desert) and they are barely wearing. They are WAY quieter than I expected, do well on road and give amazing traction in everything except this horrible clay that would stop ANY tire. They don't quite fit though without wheel spacers if you're running stock zero offset wheels so I added some 1.5 inch spacers.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top