brillo_76
Elite Member
I get back to you on that. :] kinda tied up on my paying job..:]
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POR-15 or just Fluid Film
- Thread starter Sarki
- Start date
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brillo_76
Elite Member
This is a typical 1998 frame from western Pennsylvania. When nothing has been done to it. Don't let this happen to your rig. This is my Tetanus 2 and you can see how the rest of the 4 runner looks from my garage. I save the 3rd gen runners from the scrap and parts yards by fixing the frames. It's why I have so many. 
My point is watch your frames closely if your in the rust belt. As I can fix this and make it as good as new. However, you can prevent this from happening by protecting your frames with all the methods mention in this thread. 
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My point is watch your frames closely if your in the rust belt. As I can fix this and make it as good as new. However, you can prevent this from happening by protecting your frames with all the methods mention in this thread.
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Attachments
Kanoe
New member
If you have access to a rubber grommet kit, there it a 1/2 or 5/8 closed end grommet that is a PERFECT fit in these holes. Super snug and secure. Couldn’t be better.
brillo_76
Elite Member
That is probably your cheapest route. Would be a 1/2 or 5/8 closed in grommet.
As This is a disaster to find the proper plug..
FRONT FLOOR PANEL & FRONT FLOOR MEMBER. 1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5-V6 3.4L V6 AT | Village Toyota Parts, Homosassa FL
Its looking like possibly 090950-01885 as the plug I was going to use but I am waiting for my inner rocker replacements to come in. I am in the process of replacing both front and back rockers on Tetanus 1. I will attach a photo of the plug I was planning on using to replace those adhesive tar patches.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
The criticism I have (and this is coming from automotive restoration, not truck frame restoration, mind you) is that in my experience, POR-15 is typically used on things that are already rusty/rusting, as a stop-gap measure. Things of that sort WILL need rust amendment/patching in the future (unless they are disposable - the stuff I work on is not, whereas truck frames very well may be.) When that time comes, POR-15 makes for a LOT more work to prep & repair. So much so, that I no longer do rust remediation on a car that has it.
This is a typical 1998 frame from western Pennsylvania. When nothing has been done to it. Don't let this happen to your rig. This is my Tetanus 2 and you can see how the rest of the 4 runner looks from my garage. I save the 3rd gen runners from the scrap and parts yards by fixing the frames. It's why I have so many.
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If rust is occurring on the inside of the frame, POR-15 on the outside is doing nothing in terms of protection (since frames rust from the inside out), and I'm dubious about the possibility of properly prepping and coating the inside with it. I think Fluid Film or similar multi-application products (following a good cleaning & rust converter) are a much better option, personally.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
The OP of this thread has asked me all kinds of questions about my methods before he was asking folks thoughts on POR-15 before Fluid Film. As some contributors suggested using WD-40 and other fluids as oxidation prevention.
All of which will help slow or stop the oxidation of steel.
You can criticize POR 15 /KB seal all you wish as I stated before everyone is entitled to their opinion.
I don't recall ever stating that POR-15 /KB Seal Paint was steel rot solution. As I hope everyone understands paint cant fix rot out. However, that should definitely be mentioned it is not.
Also all epoxy like JB Weld etc should never be used as frame repair either { I found that on my Tetanus 1 before I plated its frame.}
However, these are just my opinions. Folks can criticize all they wish. Just don't be surprised for me come back with rebuttals. :heh:
I Personally, have my 2001 sport 4 Runner chassis done in POR15/KB Seal after I completed repairs on its frame.
I personally, have had good results with these products.
It also seems some others have as well.
I suggest that the plating should be done from the inside of the frames (Brillos Builds). As they rust from the inside out.
I suggest folks cut the bottom of the frame out to plate their frames from the Inside to repair frame damage do to rust as my personal opinion how to repair rusted frames. As doing it that way is not a stop gap method and also a permanent frame repair solution.
Hopefully, this will clear up any issues on this matter. ;-)
All of which will help slow or stop the oxidation of steel.
You can criticize POR 15 /KB seal all you wish as I stated before everyone is entitled to their opinion.
I don't recall ever stating that POR-15 /KB Seal Paint was steel rot solution. As I hope everyone understands paint cant fix rot out. However, that should definitely be mentioned it is not.
Also all epoxy like JB Weld etc should never be used as frame repair either { I found that on my Tetanus 1 before I plated its frame.}
However, these are just my opinions. Folks can criticize all they wish. Just don't be surprised for me come back with rebuttals. :heh:
I Personally, have my 2001 sport 4 Runner chassis done in POR15/KB Seal after I completed repairs on its frame.
I personally, have had good results with these products.
It also seems some others have as well.
I suggest that the plating should be done from the inside of the frames (Brillos Builds). As they rust from the inside out.
I suggest folks cut the bottom of the frame out to plate their frames from the Inside to repair frame damage do to rust as my personal opinion how to repair rusted frames. As doing it that way is not a stop gap method and also a permanent frame repair solution.
Hopefully, this will clear up any issues on this matter. ;-)
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After confirming no rust penetration or compromised areas of metal on my frame and removing any areas that have flaking/scaling rust, I’m pretty comfortable at this point coating the exterior of the frame with POR-15 and then applying Fluid Film to all interior & exterior surfaces.
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Anybody residing in an area of the country that has to deal with salted winter roadways understands some form of treatment to the frame & undercarriage is essential and not optional.......unfortunately!!!
Thanks to everyone for their comments.
Anybody residing in an area of the country that has to deal with salted winter roadways understands some form of treatment to the frame & undercarriage is essential and not optional.......unfortunately!!!
Mackalicious
New member
Def want to soak with rust inhibitor and then paint.
This will fit then right?
50 - USA UNDERCOAT RUSTPROOFING PLUGS CAPS BUTTONS FLUID FILM PFC Wool WAX | eBay
Dimension of the Plastic Plug Buttons :
.02 - .07" : Thickness
1/2" : Diameter
I'm getting my underbody professionally detailed and having them put POR15 everywhere first, then spray a shit ton of Fluid Film.
I don't wanna have to do it again, at least for inside the frame, so I'd like to seal up the frame holes.
Does anyone know how many darn holes are there???
Also if the holes are plugged, is there really no other way water/moisture can get inside?
brillo_76
Elite Member
I never found grommets to completely seal all the holes in the frame. Those would be very good to have. I mostly seal the frame when I am platting it.
Another option could be paper on a string and silicone the frame holes shut after coating as well. Just keep in mind both frame rails are open in the rear of the frame .
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Another option could be paper on a string and silicone the frame holes shut after coating as well. Just keep in mind both frame rails are open in the rear of the frame .
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Ok ty, I'll go get these grommets and just go from there.
Idk how much stuff can get in from the frame rails in the rear but I do have a shrockworks rear bumper and I keep the spare tire in the bottom so hopefully that'll help keep moisture out more
Ron Burgandy
New member
i noticed my 5th gen has caps in the frame for the rectangle holes.... i’ll pop one off and see if they fit the 3rd gen frame as well. that would be a cheap way to cover those holes.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
Be glad that you are in the non rust belt.
As we have to fight it up here if we want the rigs to last.
jross20
New member
Be glad that you are in the non rust belt.
Shouldn't a good coat of paint be enough? If the water/air cannot get to the steel then it shouldn't rust. Right?
brillo_76
Elite Member
In non rust areas yes that perfect. In Rust belt areas... not enough. :-(
Its the oxygen that gets to the steel that's the issue. I can show you steel that was painted when new painted correctly etc and still rots out around here without any salt / winter help. Its part environment too as we have major fluctuations that cause the steel to expand and contract rapidly thus acceleration of rust. Its just something we have to deal with and why you will not see a pile of 15 -20 year old vehicles on the road as they don't survive the rot in these areas. :-(
jerbrun0515
Member
How did these grommets/plugs work out for you? I am shopping around and still wondering whether 1/2" or 5/8" is better. Also found these.
Amazon.com: Rubber Hole Plug for 5/8" Opening - 3 Pack Grommet Without Hole: Home Improvement
In Georgia, absolutely. I'm in NC and just stick with a little WD40 sprayed inside the frame holes occasionally and an awesome coat of paint on the outside. No rust at all here
jross20
New member
They make this frame coating in a can with a special nozzle on a tube. You can feed it into the frame rails and spray all over!
Found it, it's made by Eastwood. I used it a while back to fix some rust spots on the inside of that tube on the back of the frame. The one that holds the rear spring seats.
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