MeefZah
New member
[MENTION=135766]Powder_Hound[/MENTION]: This is pretty basic, sorry if it's offensive - if you already know this shit!
OK, so there are three options for wiring up the CB, or any other DC electronic device in a vehicle:
Directly to battery, through fusebox, or directly to battery via a relay. I am not going to discuss the third option because there's no reason to install a low amp device like a CB through a relay; that's more for high current drain items.
1st option is direct to battery. This is simple and straightforward. You extend the 2 wires wiring coming from the CB to about 12 feet in length using 16 or 14 ga wiring, and run the wiring through the large grommet that houses the wire loom going through the firewall high above the brake pedal area. Route it neatly to the battery and connect the red / + to the positive terminal, and the black / - to the negative terminal. Use a 5 amp ATO fuse in parallel (in line with) the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Personally I'd remove the 2 amp glass fuse and holder that is on the end of the CB's factory wiring since there's no good reason to have 2 fuses in line. You'd need the extra 16ga wiring, an ATO fuse holder, an ATO fuse, two ring terminals for the battery connections, two butt splices to connect the factory wiring to the extension wiring, some wire ties and some electric tape.
2nd option is to the fusebox under the driver's side of the dash. Find a 10-15 amp fuse under there that is non-essential, I usually use the cigarette lighter / power outlet / power mirrors / dome light fuse or something along those lines. Also find a metal bracket in the area of the fusebox that is an obvious part of the subframe, which has a bolt installed in it already. This will be the ground. Run the red / + wire to the fusebox and the black / - wire to the ground. Make the connections with a terminal ring under the bolt for ground and a 'Mini ATO fuse tap' with appropriate sized main fuse and 5 amp mini ATO fuse (note that even though the 4R uses the low profile mini ATO fuses the "regular" ATO mini fuses will work). As above, I'd personally remove the CB's glass fuse and fuse holder since you don't need 2 fuses in line. You'd need the mini ATO fuse tap, 5 amp mini ATO fuse, ring terminal, some tape and some wire ties.
I have my radios installed to battery, as they get maybe slightly better performance from being wired direct. I have my other electronic stuff wired to fusebox. The ground I used on my other stuff is actually not near the fusebox, it is one of the bolts that secures the parking brake cable stays to the chassis, under the console. I used this because my accessories are in the console and this was the closest good ground; however, if I were installing a CB radio I'd run the ground to the area of the fusebox along with the power wire if only to have the wiring together and neat.
OK, so there are three options for wiring up the CB, or any other DC electronic device in a vehicle:
Directly to battery, through fusebox, or directly to battery via a relay. I am not going to discuss the third option because there's no reason to install a low amp device like a CB through a relay; that's more for high current drain items.
1st option is direct to battery. This is simple and straightforward. You extend the 2 wires wiring coming from the CB to about 12 feet in length using 16 or 14 ga wiring, and run the wiring through the large grommet that houses the wire loom going through the firewall high above the brake pedal area. Route it neatly to the battery and connect the red / + to the positive terminal, and the black / - to the negative terminal. Use a 5 amp ATO fuse in parallel (in line with) the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Personally I'd remove the 2 amp glass fuse and holder that is on the end of the CB's factory wiring since there's no good reason to have 2 fuses in line. You'd need the extra 16ga wiring, an ATO fuse holder, an ATO fuse, two ring terminals for the battery connections, two butt splices to connect the factory wiring to the extension wiring, some wire ties and some electric tape.
2nd option is to the fusebox under the driver's side of the dash. Find a 10-15 amp fuse under there that is non-essential, I usually use the cigarette lighter / power outlet / power mirrors / dome light fuse or something along those lines. Also find a metal bracket in the area of the fusebox that is an obvious part of the subframe, which has a bolt installed in it already. This will be the ground. Run the red / + wire to the fusebox and the black / - wire to the ground. Make the connections with a terminal ring under the bolt for ground and a 'Mini ATO fuse tap' with appropriate sized main fuse and 5 amp mini ATO fuse (note that even though the 4R uses the low profile mini ATO fuses the "regular" ATO mini fuses will work). As above, I'd personally remove the CB's glass fuse and fuse holder since you don't need 2 fuses in line. You'd need the mini ATO fuse tap, 5 amp mini ATO fuse, ring terminal, some tape and some wire ties.
I have my radios installed to battery, as they get maybe slightly better performance from being wired direct. I have my other electronic stuff wired to fusebox. The ground I used on my other stuff is actually not near the fusebox, it is one of the bolts that secures the parking brake cable stays to the chassis, under the console. I used this because my accessories are in the console and this was the closest good ground; however, if I were installing a CB radio I'd run the ground to the area of the fusebox along with the power wire if only to have the wiring together and neat.
