My 4gunner restore, refurb and re-work
- Thread starter Jhelms
- Start date
solsnowbarger
New member
Is that a bot asking about the carpets? There's two other posts worded exactly the same as the post above?
Jhelms
New member
Some of my relax time the other day working on the white 4runner
- Got the airbag and controller setup installed
- Trimpackers installed
- 5100's installed
- installed new LBJ's
- 1.25" wheel spacers installed
Bump stops cut / trimpacker pictured
Airbag line should run straight up through the bump stop. There is a grommet just above the perch you can run the line into (drill it out a little). This line ends up under the rear carpet.
Everything installed. Spacers, bags, trimpackers and 5100's
I put the airbag controller in the rear cubby up high. Makes for easy access if I need to adjust. I did not picture the compressor, but it is behind the opposite wall bolted to said wall (easy installation and it fits with the removal of a noise reduction pocket)
LBJ's installed. Photo before torquing
When installing LBJ's, I recommend you install new bolts (4qty of 14mm bolts). I thought I had ordered them but did not. Have them on order now and will change them out.
Other tips:
- Use blue loctite on the 4qty of 14mm bolts. No need for red.
- ONLY buy toyota LBJ's
- Torque for 4qty of 14mm bolts is 59ft-lb
- Torque for ball joint bolt is 112ft-lb (may be a tad more to line up cotter pin)
- Torque tie rod end to 65ft-lb, may need to go up to 70 for the cotter pin to insert and this is OK.
- Got the airbag and controller setup installed
- Trimpackers installed
- 5100's installed
- installed new LBJ's
- 1.25" wheel spacers installed
Bump stops cut / trimpacker pictured
Airbag line should run straight up through the bump stop. There is a grommet just above the perch you can run the line into (drill it out a little). This line ends up under the rear carpet.
Everything installed. Spacers, bags, trimpackers and 5100's
I put the airbag controller in the rear cubby up high. Makes for easy access if I need to adjust. I did not picture the compressor, but it is behind the opposite wall bolted to said wall (easy installation and it fits with the removal of a noise reduction pocket)
LBJ's installed. Photo before torquing
When installing LBJ's, I recommend you install new bolts (4qty of 14mm bolts). I thought I had ordered them but did not. Have them on order now and will change them out.
Other tips:
- Use blue loctite on the 4qty of 14mm bolts. No need for red.
- ONLY buy toyota LBJ's
- Torque for 4qty of 14mm bolts is 59ft-lb
- Torque for ball joint bolt is 112ft-lb (may be a tad more to line up cotter pin)
- Torque tie rod end to 65ft-lb, may need to go up to 70 for the cotter pin to insert and this is OK.
Last edited:
infamousRNR
Senior Member
looks good man. let us know what you notice, like a review of sorts
Jhelms
New member
The specific hub-centric ones I bought and linked above are top quality. I was surprised actually for the price. Very well made and tolerances were excellent.
They added zero vibration going down the road which speaks to the machine work. Time will tell how the studs age / if they rust or whatever but overall for the price - go for it. Besides, studs are easy to replace.
One comment on the spacer install, the rear studs (4runner studs) had enough thread so that they were flush with the bolts which was flawless. The fronts (4runner studs) however, not sure why but I was about 1/4" shy. Not sure if they are OEM or if someone replaced the front or rear at one point. But whatever the case, the front studs were shorter than the rear studs on the gunner. Will order in new studs for the front and since I do not run dust shields on the front brakes, changing studs is super easy.
Before the spacers photos:
After the spacers:
A shot with spacers installed. Looks great with the fender flares.
With the airbags. They really do not raise or lower the 4runner much when not loaded so nothing really all that notable. However sit all my kids and family in the back so it sags a bit, then add some pressure and she levels right out! Exactly what the setup is designed to do.
Current stance with bags at their minimum 5psi recommended setting with trimpackers / 100% full tank of gas. She sits with just a slight forward rake... hard to tell in the photos.
Notice at 35psi... as stated, the setup is not designed as a lift. Does raise the back a little but nothing much. Now if the ass is sagging from weight, the bags lift it right up and level it out with ease.
Ride is butter with them at 5psi / normal. But with pressure, it gets thicker feeling but not rough. Still cushion there but not much travel so it just feels like a stiff spring but well damped by the 5100's. I have not towed with the setup yet so cannot comment on that part.
They added zero vibration going down the road which speaks to the machine work. Time will tell how the studs age / if they rust or whatever but overall for the price - go for it. Besides, studs are easy to replace.
One comment on the spacer install, the rear studs (4runner studs) had enough thread so that they were flush with the bolts which was flawless. The fronts (4runner studs) however, not sure why but I was about 1/4" shy. Not sure if they are OEM or if someone replaced the front or rear at one point. But whatever the case, the front studs were shorter than the rear studs on the gunner. Will order in new studs for the front and since I do not run dust shields on the front brakes, changing studs is super easy.
Before the spacers photos:
After the spacers:
A shot with spacers installed. Looks great with the fender flares.
With the airbags. They really do not raise or lower the 4runner much when not loaded so nothing really all that notable. However sit all my kids and family in the back so it sags a bit, then add some pressure and she levels right out! Exactly what the setup is designed to do.
Current stance with bags at their minimum 5psi recommended setting with trimpackers / 100% full tank of gas. She sits with just a slight forward rake... hard to tell in the photos.
Notice at 35psi... as stated, the setup is not designed as a lift. Does raise the back a little but nothing much. Now if the ass is sagging from weight, the bags lift it right up and level it out with ease.
Ride is butter with them at 5psi / normal. But with pressure, it gets thicker feeling but not rough. Still cushion there but not much travel so it just feels like a stiff spring but well damped by the 5100's. I have not towed with the setup yet so cannot comment on that part.
Last edited:
Jhelms
New member
Got this on today - Rola basket with extension. Price was good and as long as you seal the joints - good value! Sits higher than I would like so will fab up some low profile brackets later. Next up... hopefully bumpers in the next few months. Still deciding on which. Main thing is my front bumper is starting to fade and sticks out all goofy being an 01. Would be nice to have a bit better approach angle even though I am not setup as a hardcore wheeler. Departure is TERRIBLE with the 3rd gen towing setup and spare tire. That will all get fixed too. Past that, very pleased with the ride.
01thunder
New member
just a little service work today and a "how to" on the power steering system.
My methods for service sometimes differ from others so as usual, i present my method - use it or discard it :biggrin2: Either way, it works for me
in both my 4runners, i had not worked over the power steering fluid at all. In my previous cars, my method was as follows:
step 1: Use a service syringe to remove all fluid from the ps tank. I find i can remove between 140 - 200ml of fluid. Just depends on the angle you can get the tube into the tank
step 2: Once the fluid is removed, re-fill the exact amount you extracted with new
step 3: Start the car and turn the wheel lock to lock 3 times
step 4: Repeat the extraction / fill process 3-5 times if the system has never been serviced. The system does not hold much, so at best, have 2 quarts on standby
step 5: Do an extraction and fill every other oil change. This will keep the ps fluid in outstanding condition without mess for the life of the car / rack and ps system
some will say a full flush every 60-100k miles is the only way to go. I disagree unless you flush, and then go off regular interval partial drain and fills. With the ps system, a lot of build up and grime happens especially when it has been neglected as many of ours 2nd, 3rd, 4th+ hand cars are. You can do a full flush and the fluid may look really good! Give it a few hundred miles and it will look like crap again as the detergents and such in the new fluid break down the crap and it is released back into the system. that is why i feel a constant cycle of changes is best for systems like power steering and even transmission fluid / systems with high mileage intervals.
some will come back with the argument "you do not change your oil 1 quart at a time do you?" not at all. That is because it is a frequent service item. If i did change 1 quart every 1000 miles for example, i can assure you, my oil would be in just as good of condition, if not better than oil changed every 5k miles. In this, the solution to pollution, is dilution. Ps systems are usually not serviced for 100k miles (or way more lol), same with transmissions. However a drain and fill on either at regular intervals, keeps the overall fluid condition in top notch shape / measurably - continuously vs fluid that is great! Degrading... Degrading... Pretty bad... Terrible fluid... Change it... And start the long cycle over.
Some pics of todays service work on my white 4runner. I also did my silver but did not take pics. Does not look like anyone has touched the ps system since new in the white gunner (does not surprise me). Shame on me for not jumping on it right away when i picked it up, but other goodies had priority.
This particular service took about 25 minutes and did not spill a drop of fluid and required hardly any effort. The fluid was black, nearly like burnt motor oil. So this took 5 drain and fills / starting the 4runner and turning lock to lock 3 times in between each one to get it to the condition it is in now.
As i previously mentioned, i will now extract / fill every other oil change (10k miles) and it will remain in excellent condition and actually get better over time. I only found my 60ml syringe so this process actually takes about 10 minutes if you have a 200ml syringe (they sell them online as brake - oil inspection syringes)
before: Notice the nastyness on the tip of the syringe tube. Gunk that stirred up from inside the ps tank. I am tempted to use a magnafine filter on the ps for 30k miles or so until i clear the sediment up and the detergents in the new fluid break down the grime. Will see how it looks in 10k miles. If you have this gunk on the tube, make sure you wipe the tube clean before putting it into new fluid to suck up fresh atf.
after the process. Not flawless but in 2 changes or so, she will be as good as new. And with continuous small changes, she will remain as new.
and just for comparison, brand new atf
where can i buy that syringe thing?
CoupeSprinter
New member
Great projects. That black carpet looks very nice.
Jhelms
New member
You can get the same one here:
200cc Automotive Fluid Filler Extractor Syringe Fuel Oil Brake Fluid 7075 | eBay
Dephcon
New member
Regarding your front wheel studs, you did the TBU on the white runner. I'm not saying the TBU rotors are 1/4" thicker than the stock 4runner rotors, but they are thicker none the less. This could be a contributing factor, along with other rumors that the fronts are indeed shorter. Have you looked into getting longer wheel studs for the front?
Jhelms
New member
Yes, I do have the tbu on both 4runners. Hat could indeed be thicker but guarantee not 1/4" thicker. I will get a measurement when I get different studs. Been sick as a dog so have not measured and ordered new studs in yet. Will try to get to that this weekend.
Edit: I did not have time to search the issue previously, but YES. The fronts are shorter than the rears. There are two well documented fixes.
- You can buy new studs. Most recommend ARP P/N: 100-7715 which is for an IS300
- OEM rear stud P/N: 90942-02079 which is 44mm length
Either way not cheap but better safe than sorry
Edit: I did not have time to search the issue previously, but YES. The fronts are shorter than the rears. There are two well documented fixes.
- You can buy new studs. Most recommend ARP P/N: 100-7715 which is for an IS300
- OEM rear stud P/N: 90942-02079 which is 44mm length
Either way not cheap but better safe than sorry
Last edited:
Beer.runner
Banned
I hope you don't mind if I just completely do everything you did to my silver Limited. You probably have the best thread I've seen as far as maintenance.:hatsoff:
Some of his maintenance is unconventional... you won't see it in any other thread.
Beer.runner
Banned
most of the bigger threads I read are all the same till I got to this one
Jhelms
New member
Thanks for the compliments gentlemen. There are a lot of right ways things can be done - I just make choices off my own experience(s) and from learning from experts. I have been fortunate enough to travel literally the globe hosting classes for mechanics / technicians for close to 13 years in vehicle electronics, telematics and sensorization on class 6+ vehicles. Hundreds of classes and I learn and share all I can with every tech. Heavy vehicle know-how directly translates over to light duty vehicles without marketing hype and fancy brand names. :tea:
On another note, I am STOKED. A birthday present from my wife finally arrived. Been wanting one for a long time. Did my homework and it is by far a great bang for the buck drive cam. It just DOES with excellent video. Also, it is supercapacitor based and since I am in Arizona in the heat, this is a must / batteries will fail.
It is the G1W-C Blueskysea drive cam. She does not know it but the wife will be getting one too.
This is the exact link and one you want if you are in the market for an affordable but high quality cam.
Capacitor G1W C Car Dash Camera DVR NT96650 Chip AR0330 Lens w Free Mirro Mount | eBay
On another note, I am STOKED. A birthday present from my wife finally arrived. Been wanting one for a long time. Did my homework and it is by far a great bang for the buck drive cam. It just DOES with excellent video. Also, it is supercapacitor based and since I am in Arizona in the heat, this is a must / batteries will fail.
It is the G1W-C Blueskysea drive cam. She does not know it but the wife will be getting one too.
This is the exact link and one you want if you are in the market for an affordable but high quality cam.
Capacitor G1W C Car Dash Camera DVR NT96650 Chip AR0330 Lens w Free Mirro Mount | eBay
infamousRNR
Senior Member
this is a dash cam? what kind of memory card does it support? and does it need to be plugged in full time to work? i kind of want a dash cam
Jhelms
New member
That black carpet looks surprisingly good! New carpet is on my to-do list as well. What company did you buy from?
WTF is up with these carpet bots! lol Apparently bots love carpet!
Similar threads
