Ruby Tuesday - rad4runner's Mods and Restoration

[VA_4R]

Rad, enjoyed looking through your thread.
I hate to ask this here but dont have the post count for a thread, but its my guess someone here will know.
Will the dash and door panels work out of the same year truck for my 86 4R?
Thanks

 

[RAD4Runner]

Rad, enjoyed looking through your thread.
I hate to ask this here but dont have the post count for a thread, but its my guess someone here will know.
Will the dash and door panels work out of the same year truck for my 86 4R?
Thanks

Thank you, Sir!

Not sure about the dash, but I can take measurements of the panel:
center-to-center of door knob, door handle screw holes, door latch opening, and outside dims.

 

[RAD4Runner]

In a separate thread, I wondered whether:
(1) CSI timer has full control of grounding the STJ, OR
(2) ECU also take over grounding the STJ Pin of CSI.
[/QUOTE]

I dug deeper into it and realized that CSI circuit varies from one model-year to another.

(1)In the 1986 4Runner 22R-E, the CSI Timer Switch controls the CSI fully.

Schematic agrees with CSI Check/Inspection section diagram.
Scans of print schematic and CSI Time Switch Inspection:

​

(2) On some engines, the ECU may take part in providing ground to the ECU:
NOTE the added wire from STJ to STJ pin of ECU

​

(2) Probably applies to the 1988 4Runner 22R-E:

CSI Timer Switch Check section on page FI-75 shows this. However, the schematic does not. (From PDF version of FSM)

So... how about the 1987? ... jstluise, scope103 (of yotatech) and I are working on that here

 

[VA_4R]

Thank you, Sir!

Not sure about the dash, but I can take measurements of the panel:
center-to-center of door knob, door handle screw holes, door latch opening, and outside dims.

Thank you.
No need to do all that, I will catch my son gone and pull one of his off his 87 truck and see lol

 

[VA_4R]

do you know RAD if the Wolf body panels quality has improved?
I have some rust to kill, and havent found any rear quarters except from them

 

[RAD4Runner]

do you know RAD if the Wolf body panels quality has improved?
I have some rust to kill, and havent found any rear quarters except from them

Sorry, haven't heard of WOLF. Have you tried Toyota fiberglas? He's user slacker in this forum.

 

[REVBILLYG]

was looking for the mats you used in your headliner at sears today. Is that a one piece?
couldn't find one like that..

 

[RAD4Runner]

was looking for the mats you used in your headliner at sears today. Is that a one piece?
couldn't find one like that..

Yes, REVBILLYG, one-piece. About $20 for the roll... Here's the picture...

Harbor freight carries the jig-saw puzzle type.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Fuel Pressure Gage Piggybacked on CSI Banjo Bolt

I get hard-starts (long cranks) occasionally - like a few times in year, so
to help make it easy to monitor pressure and eliminate doubt on the fuel delivery system ...

Parts required:

• CSI Banjo bolt to 1/8 NPT adapter from LC Engineering
• Valley instrument 1-1/2 inch dia Glycerin Filled Gage, 0-60 psi, 1/8 NPT, from Northern Tools
• Some teflon tape for the NPT threads.

Easy Install! I also took out the CSI to clean it.
Torqued finger-tight... My index and ring fingers on back-up wrench on CSI, thumb on ratchet on LCE banjo bolt. I'm a 135-pound weakling so that should not be too tight, correct?

Fuel pressure with ignition on and fuel pump test connector jumped: 40psi
Turned off fuel pump and pressure held at 38psi for more than 7 minutes.
When engine running cold: pressure at 32psi. Will check later with hot engine.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Preparing Pinchweld for Windshield Replacement

Putting these thoughts in my own thread for continuity because this is one of my (not critical but) annoying issues right now.

I did my best to repair the rusted sections:
(1) Stripped down to bare metal,
(2) Applied rust converter - Permatex,
(3) Primed
(4) Painted (spray can)

However, windshield still leaked during heavy rain. Safelite re-installed glass under warranty, but last week it leaked again. Same place - upper right-hand corner.

Shop will repair under warranty but that would be waste of time, money, and other resources. So I'm approaching mine more thoroughly.

Potential points of failure are:
(1) Between glass and urethane adhesive (beyond my control).
(2) Between urethane adhesive and paint,
(3) Between paint and primer,
(4) Between primer and rust-converter/protectant
(5) Between rust converter and metal.

Therefore, I want to try as less number of layers (or points of failure) as possible that would still:
(1) Protect from rust, AND
(2) Allow good adhesion.

Thoughts I have, that I hope bodywork experts in this forum can comment on, and I also wanna ask urethane windshield adhesive manufacturer (SIKA?) are:
(1) Is POR-15 rust protectant also rust a converter?
(2) Would POR-15 directly on metal be good?
(3) Is POR-15 as good as primer so I can simply paint directly on it, eliminating the primer layer?
(4) Some people online say POR-15 is compatible with the urethane adhesive. If so, then why not simply apply adhesive directly on POR-15 and mount glass, eliminating primer and paint layers?

IF anyone knows exactly the proper procedure, that will prevent rust and allow good adhesion, May we know what process you used?

 

[wallytoo]

Location of Circuit breaker here:

ray,

i never looked closely at your fuse panel picture. seems odd that your "spares" are a 20 and 7.5. the 7.5 is good, because it potentially replaces the ign fuse if it blows, but the 20 makes little sense. the only 20 fuse to replace is the rear defroster, which you can surely live without for a period of time if it blows. a spare 15 makes more sense, as there are six of those that can pop, and are more crucial to the daily driving of the runner.


as for the por-15, i'm sure there are various opinions. i used it for my windshield frame, chassis, floorpans, under and underbody. i did not use any primer, and applied the por-15 directly to the metal surface. i did not make the metal surface shiny, i just got rid of the loose rust/scale, and then painted it. i did not paint over the por-15, because it would be covered with the windshield adhesive & trim, which i kept. i had a professional glass company install the windshield. they didn't use the original style attaching clips, just the adhesive (urethane?), and somehow attached the trim to it.

it is my opinion that you could apply por-15 to the surface, and then apply silicone to any "seams" or "valleys" that might potentially allow water to get in, and then have that covered by the urethane with the windshield installation.

wally

 

[RAD4Runner]

Thanks, Wally!

......the 20 makes little sense. the only 20 fuse to replace is the rear defroster, which you can surely live without for a period of time if it blows.... a spare 15 makes more sense, as there are six of those that can pop, and are more crucial to the daily driving of the runner.

Good catch. Thank, Wally. I wasn't paying attention. In fact, I do not have a defogger - LOL!
IIRC, I have 15-A ones in my tool box, and will put one in the 20-amp spots

... ...i did not use any primer, and applied the por-15 directly to the metal surface... i did not make the metal surface shiny, i just got rid of the loose rust/scale, and then painted it.

Correct approach. I think it's mentioned in POR-15 website that in order fo POR-15 to work best it should be directly on metal to keep moisture out. Metal needs to be prepped or roughened up. That's what the prep agent in the starter kit is for (I'm buying the starter kit soon).

i did not paint over the por-15, because it would be covered with the windshield adhesive & trim... and somehow attached the trim to it.

That's exactly what I have in mind. Still need to confirm with manufacturer of urethane adhesive (IIRC, manufacturer is Sika).
Yep possible to just stick it on with the urethane- Very aggressive adhesive! Better than silicone.

...it is my opinion that you could apply por-15 to the surface, and then apply silicone to any "seams" or "valleys" that might potentially allow water to get in, and then have that covered by the urethane with the windshield installation

Actually, a windshield shop write-up somewhere mentioned not to use body filler on valleys. The urethane bead will be thick enough to fill them. And Urethane will not stick well to silicone if latter is used to fill the valleys.
When I finally have mine done, I'll ask tech to use extra thick bead to help minimize the gap.

 

[Hyde802]

Good info on the fuel pressure gauge. What are you getting for pressure?

 

[RAD4Runner]

Good info on the fuel pressure gauge. What are you getting for pressure?

Thanks!
At operating temp normal idle: 28 psi.
During intermittent rough idle: 25 psi.

I think this is related to hot-soak condition. When I get rough idle, I'd try disconnecting fuel pressure regulator vacuum line from VSV, thereby exposing FPR to atmospheric pressure, I get 38 psi, and rough idle goes away​

 

[wallytoo]

ray,

the challenge is to diagnose why you are getting 25 psi intermittently. 28 psi is normal for hot/warm idle, but 25 is low, and as you've noticed, your 22re doesn't like it.

i've been there. heck, i'm still there trying to figure out my own fuel system issues. i'm glad i installed the pressure guage, though. it takes the guess work right out of the equation.

wally

 

[RAD4Runner]

ray,
the challenge is to diagnose why you are getting 25 psi intermittently.

Yep! Possibilities:
1) ECU not getting correct signal from coolant temp sensor,
2) ECU getting correct signal from coolant sensor and sending signal to VSV, but VSV not getting it
3) VSV getting signal but sticking.

FPR seems good because each time I get the rugh idle @25psi, I'd disconnect vacuum line from VSVto vent to atmosphere and FPR responds with @38psi as expected.
Problem had been very intermittent and engine keeps on running so low on list of priority.

 

[RAD4Runner]

Removed Autopal and installed Truck-lite (trucklite) Model 27450C

DONE!
Removed Autopal housings and installed Truck-lite Model 27450C

plug-and-play. Very happy with it.

Comparison with Halogens in Autopal housings.

Low:

High:

TRUCK-LITES 27450C, LOW-BEAM IN OCOTILLO, CA
https://youtu.be/m3t3sbnssIw

AUTO-PAL H4 CONVERSION HOUSING WITH SYLVANIA STANDARD SILVERSTARS:
https://youtu.be/WFxce_7jX7w

TRUCK-LITES 27450C, LOW-BEAM, LEAVING SPLIT MOUNTAIN, ANZA-BORREGO
https://youtu.be/bVVzPnTts_4

===============================
CONCLUSION:
Well worth it. Advantages of Trucklites:
(1) Better spread/coverage
(2) Sharp cut-off
(3) Brighter, of course
(4) Less load on alternator, hence less load on engine
(5) Should last longer than halogens, so economy in the long run

They Look Eerie with chrome... Like "Soulless eyes" / Black-Eyed Child...
The lenses are clear but the reflection of the black horizontal divider gives it a black-out look. Should look better with black-trim.

 

[PRdubi]

what kit is this again? where do you get it.

 

[RAD4Runner]

what kit is this again? where do you get it.

Trucklites Model 27450C

Got it from Levine Auto via Amazon.

 

[PRdubi]

so it's a simple plug and play. ...I have Hellas now on silverstar halogen