Ol' Ruby build thread

[cl4Rk]

Ol' Ruby's frame off restomod thread.

2000 Toyota 4Runner SR-5 3.4L V6 4WD AT Sunfire Red Pearl
(with Topaz Metallic large fender flares)

5VZ-FE engine
A340F transmission
VF2A transfer case (j-shifter)
4.10 axle gear ratio

215,xxx miles.

Previous owner (owned from 2011-2020 (105k - 206k miles), work below done in 2018-2020):
- stock everything except 265/75/r16 highway tires.
- radiator
- valve cover gaskets
- timing belt
- battery
- water pump
- rear driveshaft
- catalytic converter (original was stolen!)
- oil change
- front and rear brakes serviced
- rear axle seals
- a few other things

I bought the truck December 2020 with about 206k miles. Came with original sticker and documents, along with about 11 years of service records.

2021 (~206000 - 208500 miles):

Chassis and Body:
- Full frame swap
- POR-15
- 3M Rust Fighter-I Internal Cavity Wax
- Blasted/painted under floor pan
- Enlarged drain holes near the rear shock upper mounts
- New heat shielding along transmission tunnel
- Energy Suspension 8.4111R body mount bushings (instead of 8.4110R because the donor frame is '99, so position #2 body mounts are different)
- New rear chrome bumper sections (kept factory look)
- Running board delete (Limited-style Topaz Metallic running boards)
- Replaced missing factory skid plates
- Replaced skid plate hardware with stainless steel (M8-1.25x25mm flange bolts)
- Front right valence panel plate (tow hook cover, PN 5392535020C0)
- Upgraded recovery points with legokcen's Front Shackle Bracket Set

Suspension and Steering:
- OEM Lower Ball Joints and bolts (Left PN 4334039465, Right PN 4333039585, Bolts 8x PN 9008010066)
- Bilstein 5100 4Runner front shocks (PN 24-248730)
- Bilstein 5100 4Runner rear shocks (PN 24-249966)
- Old Man Emu 880 springs in front (2880)
- Old Man Emu 906 springs in back (2906, side-specific)
- DuroBumps 3.5” extended, progressive bump stops
- OEM Steering gear assembly, includes assembled inner tie rods (PN 4425035042)
- Energy Suspension 8.10103R steering gear bushings
- OEM outer tie rods (Left PN 4504739215, Right PN 4504639335)
- OEM rear upper control arms (4x4-specific 2x PN 4871035040)
- Whiteline W53377A front lower control arm bushings
- Whiteline W63378 rear trailing arm bushings
- Whiteline W83374 panhard bar bushings
- Prothane 18-1115 red front sway bar bushings
- Moog K90681 greasable front sway bar end links in rear, for extra length
- Moog K100127 greasable caster/camber adjusting kit
- Eimkeith's panhard correction kit
- Alignment

Brakes:
- Extended braided stainless steel brake lines
- Parking brake bracket relocation
- ABS on-the-fly on/off switch (building on others' work, I'm planning a one-switch solution)

Driveline:
- TrakMotive TO8043ET Extended Articulation CV Axles
- Rebooted original OEM CV Axels as spares (2x PN 0443835062 (Outboard: black grease, Inboard: tan grease))
- Greased all zerk fittings (Lucas X-TRA Heavy Duty grease 10301 NLGI #2)
- Replaced front diff fill plug with Lexus PN 9034118060
- Replaced front diff drain plug with Lexus PN 9034124016

Wheels and Tires:
- Added a matching OEM wheel in stock spare location
- Spidertrax 1.25" hub-centric spacers
- 265/75/r16 BFG KO2 all-terrains (~32”) in 5-tire rotation (biggest fully-inflated tire size that still fits in stock spare location)

Air and Fuel:
- Denso MAF sensor
- Fuel filter
- Cleaned throttle bottle
- Gas cap
- ISR (intake silencer removal) (Airaid AIR-510-934 M.I.T., kept original tube/silencer untouched)
- Vacuum hose replacement (Silicone Intakes VAC000308 blue thick-walled hoses)

Engine:
- Engine Oil Pressure Switch
- OEM cam seals (2x PN 9031138051, 2x PN 1118862010)

Cooling, Lubrication, Ventilation, Drainage:
- New radiator
- B&M 70264 SuperCooler external ATF cooler ran in series
- Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline filter for ATF
- Transmission Filter (PN 3533060030)
- Tundra engine oil filter (higher capacity than 4Runner filter, PN 90915YZZD3)
- ARB breather extensions from transmission, transfer case, and rear diff (front diff already vents up high in engine bay)
- PCV valve
- Extended AC Drain mod (Here's the original write up)
- Full synthetic fluids drain & fill
- Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 Heavy Duty diesel engine oil

Electrical and Spark:
- Denso starter
- Starter relay
- Spark plugs
- Ignition coil boots
- Ignition wire set
- Repaired the power steering idle-up switch (PN 9098011428, PN 8299812440)

Other:
- Solenoid Assembly, Four Wheel Drive Control (PN 8544035040)
- Shift lock release button cover (4WD-specific PN 3355435050)
- Marlin Crawler MCTM-523 Heavy Duty Shifter Seat (Blue) for transfer case j-shifter (plus Gasket PN 3634535050 and Oil Deflector PN 3610835060)
- Replaced windshield washer nozzles with Honda PN 76810-TK8-A01
- Repaired pedal-side throttle cable grommet
- Restored center caps
- Windshield wipers
- XCAR Roof Rack Basket with extension
- 4.5 gallon RotoPaX
- Hella two-tone trumpet horns (HELLA 012010901)
- Fire extinguisher mounted under the front of the driver’s seat (Bracketeer UFEB1317/D)
- DIY awning
- Upgraded rear hatch struts and DIY nylon bushings (Strongarm 6815 Liftgate Supports, Hillman 880440 nylon spacers, Hillman 884573 nylon flat washers)

2022 (208600 miles)
- Stubby antenna mod
- Replaced both signal light assemblies (CarLights360 TO2530133 + TO2531133)

Next up:
- OEM HVAC Heater Control Valve (PN 8724035070)
- OEM Heater Hoses (PN 8724535670, 8724535680, 8724535730, 8724535770, 8724535451, 8724535461, 8724535690, 8724535710, 872453D090, 1577762020, 1626162060, 9955610300)
- OEM Engine Coolant Thermostat, with jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position (Thermostat PN 9091603075, gasket PN 1632562010)
- Coolant system flush with Toyota Red (Genuine Toyota Fluid 00272-1LLAC-01 Long Life Coolant)
- TRD Radiator Cap (PN PTR040000003)
- Fan clutch (AISIN FCT-013 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch)
- Door checker/fixator repair
- Shifter bushings (4x PN 9038511003)
- Replace factory head unit with one that's not broken (backlit, tape deck, tune knob)
- Cat back exhaust repair/replacement (maybe Magnaflow Overland, Gibson, or Northern Stainless)

Down the road:
- Some body work (rear passenger dog leg rust, rocker panel gouges from running boards rubbing)
- Replace seals around rear hatch and driver's door
- Replace transmission mounts (and maybe engine mounts)
- Replace passenger headlight (small chip in glass)
- Auxiliary fuse and relay block with pre-wired loom through the firewall
- Fog lights in factory location
- Light bar behind grill
- Restored seats
- Toyota e-locker retrofit
- Rock sliders
- eimkeith's lower link mount reinforcements

Big thank you to Jason from OPT OFF ROAD and all the extremely knowledgable and helpful forum members here!!

 

[cl4Rk]

some more photos (before frame swap, lift, tires)

 

[cl4Rk]

I should add that this forum has been essential to my learning about our trucks and gaining the confidence to fix things myself. I've never really worked on vehicles before getting this truck, and I'm learning so much and really enjoying myself. So, thanks everyone!! :hippie:

 

[Nicknasty]

Dope! Looks so clean inside and out. Is the frame pretty bad?

 

[cl4Rk]

Dope! Looks so clean inside and out. Is the frame pretty bad?

Thanks!

The frame is actually not too bad, other than one area of penetrating rust. It's on the inboard side of the passenger rear lower trailing arm mount weld seam, which is a common problem area on these trucks.

EDIT: After starting the frame swap, it's clear there were other problem areas, including the rear shock upper mount goblets around the mounting bolt holes.


I read a lot of threads here, including [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] 's Frame Rot!! Is this the end?, when deciding between repair vs swap. In the end, I decided to go with swap since there might be other problem spots that are hard to see, and it's also possible that the frame is rotting from the inside out, and I wouldn't know it until things started failing. I'd like to get out ahead of this rust rather than let it get worse.

I'll get more photos of the frame up soon when I start the frame swap thread. In the meantime, here's a photo of the problem spot, and of the donor frame that will get treated with POR-15 before the swap:

 

[Nicknasty]

Thanks!

The frame is actually not too bad, other than one area of penetrating rust. It's on the inboard side of the passenger rear lower trailing arm mount weld seam, which is a common problem area on these trucks.

I read a lot of threads here, including [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] 's Frame Rot!! Is this the end?, when deciding between repair vs swap. In the end, I decided to go with swap since there might be other problem spots that are hard to see, and it's also possible that the frame is rotting from the inside out, and I wouldn't know it until things started failing. I'd like to get out ahead of this rust rather than let it get worse.

I'll get more photos of the frame up soon when I start the frame swap thread. In the meantime, here's a photo of the problem spot, and of the donor frame that will get treated with POR-15 before the swap:

Awesome man stoked to see where this goes keep the pics coming

 

[Trophy_Rock]

Nice find, color looks great

 

[cl4Rk]

Time for a new steering rack...

 

[cl4Rk]

Some photos of things in progress... lots of internal coating and POR-15 on the new to me frame.

In photo showing the back of engine and transmission, you can see the oil from the leaky cam seals.

Also, enlarged the drainage holes in the rear shock upper mount "goblet".

 

[photoleif]

subbed! looking forward to more pix. great progress. are you renting the garage stall and lift, or is it something friends or family own? and that is one floppy ITRE, oy.

oh, and, how large did you go with the 'goblet' weep holes? did you add more of them also, or just enlarge?

 

[cl4Rk]

subbed! looking forward to more pix. great progress. are you renting the garage stall and lift, or is it something friends or family own? and that is one floppy ITRE, oy.

oh, and, how large did you go with the 'goblet' weep holes? did you add more of them also, or just enlarge?

Thanks!

I'm paying. I know [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] (and others too I think) have done a backyard frame swap. I don't have the space, skill, patience, etc, for that!

Enlarged only, didn't add new holes. The original drain holes look like they're just for water, so now they're big enough to let some sand/dirt/small gravel drain as well. I'd say double in size at most. I'll probably slather that bolt up there with a bunch of grease like others have suggested as well.

 

[Devbot]

Major respect to anybody that goes through the hassle of a frame swap, lots of dedication.

 

[photoleif]

Thanks!

I'm paying. I know [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] (and others too I think) have done a backyard frame swap. I don't have the space, skill, patience, etc, for that!

Enlarged only, didn't add new holes. The original drain holes look like they're just for water, so now they're big enough to let some sand/dirt/small gravel drain as well. I'd say double in size at most. I'll probably slather that bolt up there with a bunch of grease like others have suggested as well.

[MENTION=9502]repo[/MENTION] suggested not only slathering the bolt with antiseize, but also smartly added to the suggestion that i put a long vacuum cap on top of each. i used the caps i had, plus filled them with antiseize, but having all that direct access would be soooo nice.

 

[repo]

[MENTION=9502]repo[/MENTION] suggested not only slathering the bolt with antiseize, but also smartly added to the suggestion that i put a long vacuum cap on top of each. i used the caps i had, plus filled them with antiseize, but having all that direct access would be soooo nice.

I crawled underneath and looked at them to confirm this actually works and isn't bro science and those threads and hex sockets are completely pristine after 3 winters! I used anti-seize because that's what was handy but silicone grease or white lithium (I think is safe for rubber? I dunno) should work. The point was to repel/displace any water that might get inside the cap, but they were still on extremely tight. I used 5/16" vacuum caps, there's no UV exposure or anything down there so works fine. I thought they were longer but they are just normal size. Hopefully saves a headache down the line.

Great build BTW, imagine how good it will feel having a totally clean frame like that. I feel weird polluting a build thread with my own pics so let me know if you want me to move them.

Right side:

Left side to make sure:

Caps:

 

[cl4Rk]

Major respect to anybody that goes through the hassle of a frame swap, lots of dedication.

Thanks Devbot. I’ve been learning a ton! I should add that I’m outsourcing the lion’s share of the real heavy lifting here. The mechanic who runs this shop has done multiple frame swaps, including a Tacoma and a Wrangler. He also does a lot of frame and body work for a local classic car restoration shop.

 

[cl4Rk]

I crawled underneath and looked at them to confirm this actually works and isn't bro science and those threads and hex sockets are completely pristine after 3 winters!

Great build BTW, imagine how good it will feel having a totally clean frame like that. I feel weird polluting a build thread with my own pics so let me know if you want me to move them.

Thanks for sharing, repo. That’s awesome! Glad to hear it’s working.

And yes, it’s very satisfying to see such a clean frame. [emoji2956]

 

[alphyn]

My plan is to keep things fairly stock but get the truck into excellent condition: I'll prefer to restore rather than modify when I can, for the most part.

Damn, you really are going all out. Congrats on being a relatively new 4Runner owner. That rust looks terrifying. I learned my lesson on my wife's 4Runner she sourced from... CHICAGO. Because it was "cheap". Every bolt on that thing was a nightmare to remove. West cost mechanics wouldn't touch it, or at least gave her an adjusted rate for dealing with anything that needed to be done with it. Cosmetically, it was in great condition. Just all that salt. Nightmare!

My 4Runner has only lived in gentle environments. Lots of dirt and grime from off-road adventures, but I'd rather clean grime than rust. What was your motivation putting all time time/work/money/effort into your build? There are plenty of 3rd Gen 4Runners out here on the West Coast for under $8k in extremely good condition with reasonable miles on them that don't need frame swaps.

 

[repo]

Are you going to do much PM thats easy while it's apart like that? Rear main seal, flex plate, transfer case cover and stuff like that.

 

[alphyn]

Are you going to do much PM thats easy while it's apart like that? Rear main seal, flex plate, transfer case cover and stuff like that.

You kind of have to at this point, right? It's like taking a house down to studs. You can't just leave all the crusty wiring and plumbing in there. See structural beams with the least bit of termite damage? Rip them out and replace. And now that you've gone that far, why not keep going even further?

Sorry, just renovated a house and once you start going deep, you just keep on going deeper. When good intentions meet perfection:

:whipping2

 

[repo]

You kind of have to at this point, right? It's like taking a house down to studs. You can't just leave all the crusty wiring and plumbing in there. See structural beams with the least bit of termite damage? Rip them out and replace. And now that you've gone that far, why not keep going even further?

Sorry, just renovated a house and once you start going deep, you just keep on going deeper. When good intentions meet perfection:

:whipping2

Haha been there done that. "Hmm I should add hurricane ties while the rim joist is exposed.. you know in case of a tornado". Or "this small section of OSB has a little surface damage lets rip off the entire wall and replace it with Zip System sheathing just in case. Then 6 weeks later still not finished original project.