POR-15 or just Fluid Film

All 5 of my Rigs center body mounts [on both sides] look exactly like that. At first I thought they failed. But not all 10. Even my one with the perfect frame has that same spacing. So unless i had 10 body mounts fail the exact same way, That is how they are supposed to be. Which doesn't make any sense at all.


Regarding the OEM body mounts . . .

It was by design though to leave that spacing there was on purpose...;-)

Brillo to the rescue!
Thank you j4run, was going to do some research on that center bushing/mount as I had noticed it before and was wondering why it was not a full sized bushing.
I had even taken additional pictures and was going to start a separate thread if I wasn’t able to find an explanation.
Can’t imagine there’s enough flexing in the frame as the explanation mentioned in the included link but who really knows.
I’m just happy to hear that it’s the way it came from the factory and that i’m not going to have to start replacing mounts.
A bit more rust removal with wire wheel though I think almost ready for a final visit to the car wash where I can hit the undercarriage with power wash before starting to apply the grease remover, metal prep and coating it with POR-15.
I’ll obviously wait a few days for it to fully dry after the power wash to start the final process.
Picture of rear & center mounts below:
 

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Behind the body frame mounts. Are those rotted out and no steel left? Or just shadows etc. If that's rotted out. You be plating like I do very soon. ..;)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
Behind the body frame mounts. Are those rotted out and no steel left? Or just shadows etc. If that's rotted out. You be plating like I do very soon. ..;)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
No rot or rust through anywhere, that’s just some dirt that I missed when i first hit with power washer.
Hence another visit with the power washer planned for later today.
Hoping i’ve removed enough of the surface rust at this point as planning to start the POR-15 process......thoughts?
 
Hoping i’ve removed enough of the surface rust at this point as planning to start the POR-15 process......thoughts?

POR-15 likes rust, so I'd just go for it. Use the recommended process - degreaser, metal etch/prep, then POR-15. Fun!
 
I bought a cheap pneumatic scaler from Harbor Freight (less than $30). This got into places impossible to reach with wire wheel, grinder, etc. It worked really well and I highly recommended
-

Never used one before but I do have a compressor.
Any chance you can provide specifics on the one you used or even better, a link.
I see there are lots of different models/styles available.
Would also consider a battery powered unit if anyone has recommendations if they are that useful for getting rid of surface rust and cleaning up metal.
 
POR-15 likes rust, so I'd just go for it. Use the recommended process - degreaser, metal etch/prep, then POR-15. Fun!

LEON!!!..........got all my products lined up and ready to go. Just want to make sure I have everything cleaned up enough to make this a success as no way I want to have to do this again!
Will wait a couple weeks after applying the POR-15 products to hit the entire undercarriage with Fluid Film which will then become an annual event every Fall.
 

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Make sure you use what you need of the POR15 in one sitting. I mangled the top getting the can open, and even with a couple nitrile gloves covering the top, it hardened up on the top , I had to crack through it to get to the wet paint.


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Make sure you use what you need of the POR15 in one sitting. I mangled the top getting the can open, and even with a couple nitrile gloves covering the top, it hardened up on the top , I had to crack through it to get to the wet paint.


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Spoke with tech rep @ POR who told me some guys never actually open the can but puncture the top with sheetmetal screws (2 so it pours easier) with rubber washers and pour small amount as needed into small container for immediate use.
After pouring some out they just seat the screws w/rubber washers into the top so all good for next time.
I’ll give it a shot.
 
Spoke with tech rep @ POR who told me some guys never actually open the can but puncture the top with sheetmetal screws (2 so it pours easier) with rubber washers and pour small amount as needed into small container for immediate use.
After pouring some out they just seat the screws w/rubber washers into the top so all good for next time.
I’ll give it a shot.

That’s a great suggestion! Mine has always gone off on me.
 
Spoke with tech rep @ POR who told me some guys never actually open the can but puncture the top with sheetmetal screws (2 so it pours easier) with rubber washers and pour small amount as needed into small container for immediate use.
After pouring some out they just seat the screws w/rubber washers into the top so all good for next time.
I’ll give it a shot.

That is pure genius! I wasted more quart size cans than I want to admit due to the lid completely seizing on the can after one use. This trick sounds perfect, I'll be sure to try it next time.
 
Oh, and I also came across the problem with a solid crust forming on the top layer of the paint. I wonder if that can be fixed by storing the can upside down, that way the crust will form on the far side, away from the opening? Like storing ketchup or mustard jar upside down :D.
 
I have that china freight air descaler and they work great.

Once Por-15, KB seal are exposed to the atmosphere they will not last long. I used to buy the smallest cans and just use them up at one time.

The sheet metal screw with rubber washer will work for a little while, but I wouldn't expect a 90% used can to be good in a year.. However, a few weeks, or so, I can see that working.

This is the one I have
Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools

That baby is heavy. The compact one i am sure would be just as good and smaller so you can get into more places

Compact Air Needle Scaler


You should be good though as long as you don't have any rot through areas. You get that outside coated really good with the POR 15. Then clean the inside of the frame and shot it a heavy coat of fluid film. Seal all the frame holes off with even silicon. Then coat the outside of the frame good with FF. You should pretty much super slow down the rust progression.. :D
 
I have that china freight air descaler and they work great.

Once Por-15, KB seal are exposed to the atmosphere they will not last long. I used to buy the smallest cans and just use them up at one time.

The sheet metal screw with rubber washer will work for a little while, but I wouldn't expect a 90% used can to be good in a year.. However, a few weeks, or so, I can see that working.

This is the one I have
Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools

That baby is heavy. The compact one i am sure would be just as good and smaller so you can get into more places

Compact Air Needle Scaler


You should be good though as long as you don't have any rot through areas. You get that outside coated really good with the POR 15. Then clean the inside of the frame and shot it a heavy coat of fluid film. Seal all the frame holes off with even silicon. Then coat the outside of the frame good with FF. You should pretty much super slow down the rust progression.. :D

Brillo,

Interesting tools, never heard of them till you posted, Thanks!

LMS
 
Get a REALLY good set of ear pro.

One of the best hearing protection devices I use, I had made at an audiologist
which is molded to you inner ears. The sponge ones work fine to and a lot cheaper just not as sound deadening as these. They are not silicone material as that stuff sweats too much. I used to shoot a lot of Skeet & Trap back in the day so I get your point!

https://www.decibullz.com/earplugs-for-shooters/
 
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I have that china freight air descaler and they work great.

Once Por-15, KB seal are exposed to the atmosphere they will not last long. I used to buy the smallest cans and just use them up at one time.

The sheet metal screw with rubber washer will work for a little while, but I wouldn't expect a 90% used can to be good in a year.. However, a few weeks, or so, I can see that working.

This is the one I have
Air Needle Scaler & Other Needle Scalers - Harbor Freight Tools

That baby is heavy. The compact one i am sure would be just as good and smaller so you can get into more places

Compact Air Needle Scaler


You should be good though as long as you don't have any rot through areas. You get that outside coated really good with the POR 15. Then clean the inside of the frame and shot it a heavy coat of fluid film. Seal all the frame holes off with even silicon. Then coat the outside of the frame good with FF. You should pretty much super slow down the rust progression.. :D

I have the compact model linked above and it works very well. Just used it on the frame of my Gen-1 Tundra. Removes scale that the wire wheel just polishes.
Warning: it uses a LOT of air. You'll need a high CFM compressor to keep up -- or just manage your duty cycles.

+1 on the hearing protection. When you're under there, it's like your inside a steel drum banging on it with a hammer.:bash:
 
I have the compact model linked above and it works very well. Just used it on the frame of my Gen-1 Tundra. Removes scale that the wire wheel just polishes.
+1 on the hearing protection. When you're under there, it's like your inside a steel drum banging on it with a hammer.:bash:

Thanks for another solid recommendation on the compact needle scaler. Will definitely be visiting local HF and picking one up before applying the POR.
Got the ear protection covered but thanks for mentioning as well.
Would like to get this buttoned up in next few weeks before the snow starts flying!
 
Would like to get this buttoned up in next few weeks before the snow starts flying!

Hopefully we have more than just a few weeks! :-)

I prepped and POR-15-ed my Tundra this summer. This past weekend I doused it with a good coat of WD-40 based on the thread by [MENTION=125309]dogtail[/MENTION] . Annual WD-40 treatment is my plan going forward based on his experience.

For the WD-40 I bought a gallon container and a large spray can of it. To apply it I used a combination of a garden/chemical sprayer
hdx-sprayers-1501hdxa-64_1000.jpg
and an old spray bottle.
600c837f-ff89-4e07-a67f-20aff9b640f8_1.4c2da424d6afa1ddc8e1e94f93231279.jpeg

That covered the bulk of the application. Then used the spray can along with a 2 foot long extension tube to get in the door bottoms, rocker panels, and other hard to reach places.
 
Hopefully we have more than just a few weeks! :-)

I prepped and POR-15-ed my Tundra this summer. This past weekend I doused it with a good coat of WD-40 based on the thread by [MENTION=125309]dogtail[/MENTION] . Annual WD-40 treatment is my plan going forward based on his experience.

For the WD-40 I bought a gallon container and a large spray can of it. To apply it I used a combination of a garden/chemical sprayer
hdx-sprayers-1501hdxa-64_1000.jpg
and an old spray bottle.
600c837f-ff89-4e07-a67f-20aff9b640f8_1.4c2da424d6afa1ddc8e1e94f93231279.jpeg

That covered the bulk of the application. Then used the spray can along with a 2 foot long extension tube to get in the door bottoms, rocker panels, and other hard to reach places.
Sounds good, us New Englanders gotta do what we can to not rust away. You can hit around the inside of the wheel well lips too for body protection. Remember to not wash the undercarriage now (aka high pressure car wash). The coating overtime will create a seasoned film. I hit again in February for the tail end of winter, I don't have to, but I do it for piece of mind. I'm holding out to spray just before 1st snow, which is usually around December in Massholia.
 

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