JZiggy's "Grown Up" 4Runner Build

JZiggy · Nov 12, 2016

Welcome to JZiggy's build / maintenance / sicmods thread! This is where I document all my projects and attempts to overthink simple repairs and upgrades. If that sounds like your thing then read on.

How the 4Runner sits today:

Engine:

First look under the valve cover
Second look, with valve adjustment info
Idler pulley bearing R&R
Fuel filter cut open
OEM mini-headers
A/C clutch bearing R&R
Water heater valve
Oil cooler and filter base overhaul
Oil pan reseal
UNI foam pre-filter install and servicing
PCV catch can install
Throttle cable lube and adjustment
Oil pump & harmonic balancer replacement
Walker exhaust system replacement
Rear main seal, crank sleeve, pilot bearing, flywheel, clutch
Intake refresh + OsideTiger upgraded fuel injectors
Compression test at 300k
Water pump & thermostat replacement

Drivetrain:

Rear axle bearings and seals
Marlin shifter bushings
Short shifter for W59 transmission
Trans and transfer shifter base upgrades
TrueTrac in the rear end
TrueTrac in the front
Manual hubs
Painted hub faces
Regear to Nitro 4.56 gears -- thanks Zuk!
Rear diff stud upgrade
OEM rear u-joint install
Replaced motor and trans mounts
Transmission rebuild
ARP manual hub studs
Pinion angle adjustment

Suspension:

99 talls for the rear
Airlift 1000 helper springs (removed after lift)
Taco TRD front swaybar mod
Durobumps: front, rear, and differential brackets
Poly bushings in rear UCA, rear LCA, and panhard bar
Upper control arm OEM bushing replacement and lower OEM bushings
Dobinsons IMS 2" lift, JBA UCAs, extended links, PCK, etc.
Dobinson shock revalve for ride quality
Heavy Friction Metal Works spindle gusset install
ARP LBJ bolt upgrade (superseded by 01-02 OEM bolts)
01-02 LBJ OEM bolts and dust shields
Rokmen rear LCAs
LBJ Uniball conversion (Anonymous Fab) (eliminated for Total Chaos uniball)
Snowbound outboard shock relocation kit
Perry Parts front & rear 3D printed bumpstop upgrade
Total Chaos lower uniball conversion
OPT Offroad upper and lower adjustable links
Eimkeith lower and upper rear link reinforcements
... and longer bolts for the links
Eimkeith Strut Tower Reinforcement (STR)

Chassis:

Energy Suspension steering racking bushings
199mm TBU and rear wheel cylinders
OEM parking brake cable replacement
Transmission tunnel heat shield
Clutch and brake pedal pivot bushings
OEM body mount replacement
Parking brake bellcrank rebuild
OEM steering rack replacement
Bora wheel spacers and extended rear lug studs
S13WE 199mm caliper rebuild
Brake master cylinder and LSPV replacement

Exterior:

SR5 skinny black flares - repaint and add gasket trim
SR5 front mudflaps
Windshield washer sprayer -- 2-hole to 3-hole upgrade / Honda Odyssey sprayer
96-98 Front bumper install with 99+ crash bar retrofit
Front Warn hitch install
Rocky Mtn Antero roof rack
Thule fairing install
Wade in-channel wind visors
Window tinting
Add a blinker bulb to the side marker housing
BX Built LED projector retrofit & high beam indicator fix
AVS hood deflector rivnut mounting upgrade
Paint repair
Painting the flares & bumper trim, mirrors, and cowl
Glass polishing
GMR Underlights
OEM 96-98 Fog Light kit

Interior:

BHicks 3D printed cupholder -- one of my very favorite sicmods
Rear seat child seat latch upgrade
Front seat upgrades -- rail extensions and memory foam
Rear console plug in the ashtray location
Phone holder modified Panavise bracket
Rear cargo mod -- awesome mod
Rear pressure vent and routing CB wire
Ceiling cargo hammock
Rear window switch install in cargo area
Cargo/sleeping/platform build
Door lock motor repair
Door check (door holder) mechanism repair
Spiker phone mount + Magmount
Sound deaden roof & re-glue roof support
Sound deadening of cabin (Siless 3-in-1)

Armor:

Stubbs sliders
Savage front skids
... And banging dents out of the skids
Rubber bumper for lift point on skid
Lil Skip gas tank skid
Snowbound rear lower shock protectors
Freel Good Performance axle bash plate (rear diff armor)
Freel Good Lower Link Reinforcement
Marlin Crawler LCA Reinforcement

Odds & Ends:

Bonus Spal e-fan install
Heated mirror retrofit
Truck-Bedz air mattress
Engine bay basket
CB mount and hatch bumper mod
Stabilizer foot upgrade to CB antenna mount
Subaru Forester gauge pack install (altimeter, compass, and thermometer)
Midland CB Radio bracket for transmission tunnel
Spiker Engineering hood struts
ARB awning brackets
Napa awning install and custom brackets
Napa awning support bracket
Napa awning horizontal strut stiffener
Power windows "camping mode" (operate without key-on)
Cabin air filter install
FourCam hatch vent cover
4th gen horn upgrade
------------------------------
Original post from 11-11-2016:

I picked up this 4Runner a couple of weeks ago and the projects are starting to happen.

Specs:
1999 4Runner Base model
3RZ-FE, 5 speed, 4WD
~230,000 miles

This truck was pretty much a dealer-serviced one-owner. No signs of being messed with at all. In the few tanks of gas I've driven it so far it's gotten 24-25 mpg and does not burn any oil that I can tell yet.

My old 4Runner, the college truck:

The new, "grown up" 4Runner:

(Pic edited badly to protect the innocent)

My goal is to keep this 4Runner a practical commuter that is reliable and gets good fuel economy, and do some sensible upgrades to improve its off-roadability as an occasional adventure rig. At least, that's my goal right now :bounce:

JZiggy · Nov 12, 2016

It's worth noting that I had a 10 year career doing 1st gen 4Runner stuff over on YotaTech. Doesn't seem to be very much 3rd gen action over there so my center of gravity has shifted to T4R.org.

I like the 3RZ. Doesn't seem much more intimidating than a 22RE. I guess I just feel comfortable with 4 bangers in general.

JZiggy · Nov 12, 2016

My first "mod" is kind of a silly one. This base model truck had lots of upgrades like power windows, power mirrors, etc. Pretty much everything but ABS and a sunroof. Not that I care about those anyway (sour grapes!) But the missus enjoys a lighted vanity mirror, so I found a set of SR5 visors and made a little harness so it will light up.

JZiggy · Nov 12, 2016

Currently doing the lower ball joints. They appear to be factory given the perfectly-bent cotter pin. This GearWrench 3916D ball joint press did a great job popping the LBJs and the tie rods. I wish I had bought one of these a long time ago.

buickid · Nov 12, 2016

Nice truck, love my 3.4, but wish it were a 5 speed. The 4 banger would be nicer on the gas bill too heh. I added that ball joint separator to my Amazon wishlist, looks like a handy piece!

JZiggy · Nov 13, 2016

LBJ install went swimmingly! Now we're looking all factory fresh under there.

JZiggy · Nov 13, 2016

I also attacked the clutch actuation system today. I had already removed the goofy torsion spring but today I added part # 90905-07028 return spring to help hold the pedal up more firmly. I like to have the engagement point adjusted pretty close to the floor so this was important.

The spring hit the torsion bar flange on the pedal somewhat, so I popped off the pedal and sawed that sucker off.

Installed and working nicely.

I was also plagued with clutch creak from the center pivot of the clutch fork. I think the last time the clutch was changed out they forgot to lube it. I removed the slave cylinder bolts to get it out of the way and pulled the boot off. Pushing the fork toward the front of the truck showed some crustiness in there.

My go-to lube for heavy sliding applications like this: Honda Moly 60, a thick paste full of extreme pressure MOS2.

All lubed up and quiet as a mouse!

Edit update: A year or so later I found I had to reapply grease to the pivot. I'm not sure a moly paste is really the right lubricant for this. I sprung for a high-tack bearing grease that oughta stay put for a while.

JZiggy · Nov 13, 2016

And finally for today... it looks a lot better with fresh 265/70R16's and the running boards gone.

UnderFire · Nov 13, 2016

Never seen a base model that color, looks really good. Luckily 99.99% of 3rd gens had power standard, so even us cheap base model guys get that good stuff.

rkntoy · Nov 13, 2016

Nice looking rig. Sounds like you found a nice dealer serviced, one owner like mine. Just different color.

JZiggy · Nov 14, 2016

Not sure what the dealer usually puts in the trans & xfer, but it seemed pretty thin. Still nice and clear which is always a good thing to see. I swapped it out with Amsoil MTG in the trans and Amsoil 75W-110 in the transfer. Man, it just shifts like butter now.

I like to fill it through the shifter holes. That way you can fit an extra quart in (kidding)

The process also revealed that I need to shop for a transfer case shift rod bootie. For now a zip tie and some electrical tape will have to suffice.

JZiggy · Nov 14, 2016

Another note, for the folks trying to fix their power antennas...

My 4Runner had a broken antenna mast. I pulled the motor and fished out the broken pieces left in there.

I bought a $16 replacement on eBay, but it didn't work right. It would pull the mast in fine but when it extended to its maximum length the motor would continue to grind and slip until it timed out. I popped an OEM mast ($50) in there and it worked perfectly.

I think that the cheap replacements either use a softer plastic for the mast or the gears are not molded correctly the mesh well with the motor. The motor needs to "feel" the mast extend fully so it has to have good traction between the motor gear and the teeth of the mast wound around it.

In summary -- get an OEM mast and be done with it!

3rzrunner · Nov 15, 2016

Nice Truck! i love the colour... :nod:
Did you do the shifter seat and bushing when you changed the fluid?

Nice to see more 3rz's on here :rockon:

did your truck come with an elocker?

Mark_BC · Nov 15, 2016

This Amsoil lube is not the easiest thing to get up here, do you recommend I put in the effort or is there a more common brand that is just as good?

JZiggy · Nov 15, 2016

No e-locker for me. I did not do the shifter seat, doesn't feel like it needs it yet. Do you use the product that Marlin Crawler makes?

Mark, can you get your hands on Redline? MT-90 is a comparable product to Amsoil MTG.

3rzrunner · Nov 15, 2016

Mark_BC said:
This Amsoil lube is not the easiest thing to get up here, do you recommend I put in the effort or is there a more common brand that is just as good?

You can order it directly from amsoil, i usually order all my fluids at the same time from them so the membership cost makes sense. i've got the MTG in mine and it shifts good.

3rzrunner · Nov 15, 2016

JZiggy said:
No e-locker for me. I did not do the shifter seat, doesn't feel like it needs it yet. Do you use the product that Marlin Crawler makes?

Mark, can you get your hands on Redline? MT-90 is a comparable product to Amsoil MTG.

Yes, i used the Marlin Parts under my Short shifter and it made a world of difference

https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-sockets

https://www.marlincrawler.com/transmission/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-seats

JZiggy · Nov 17, 2016

Working on fitting up some "skinny" black SR5 flares. My base model appears not to have holes in the back fender cutouts. I am leery of drilling holes, but I think I may have found a decent solution... a handful of midget welding clamps:

JZiggy · Nov 22, 2016

Success! I got the rear flare installed without drilling into the fender (my base model did not have any holes).

The secret? These little panel clamps, slightly modified thus:

And here they are holding the rear flare on very snugly

Mark_BC · Nov 22, 2016

Where did you get your flares? Do the front ones come with a bit of a mud guard? i just took off my running boards and now I'm going to get a lot more crap thrown up the side.

JZiggy's &quot;Grown Up&quot; 4Runner Build

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